The 18th arrondissement of Paris, le dix-huitième, is truly versatile. The neighborhoods and areas here all have their own particular character and feel. In this arrondissement, also known as Butte-Montmartre, you can visit lively markets, get a stunning view of the whole city, have a nice stroll down peaceful, narrow streets, check out one of the bars bustling with life, or simply sit down at a cozy café and soak in the atmosphere.
You’ll find le dix-huitième on the right bank of the Seine in the north of Paris. Officially, the arrondissement is divided into four quartiers or neighborhoods: Grandes-Carrières, Clignancourt, Goutte d’Or, and La Chapelle. For an easier overview here, we’ll cover some areas in more detail, and together walk through Goutte d’Or, Montmartre, Pigalle, Porte de Clignancourt, and La Chapelle.
So, without further ado, let’s dive in!
Goutte d’Or
Goutte d’Or is a multicultural neighborhood where a large part of the population, around 35%, are foreign nationals. With a strongly present African community, this part of town is sometimes referred to as “Little Africa” or “Black Paris”.
The area has its own vibrant vibe worth exploring. And there are two markets not to miss – marché Barbès and marché Dejean.
Under the elevated metro tracks of line 2, right by metro station Barbès-Rochechouart, you’ll find the popular marché Barbès. In addition to fruit, vegetables, fish, and meat, there are stands offering scarves, clothes, watches, and jewelry to incredible prices. Being one of the busiest and cheapest markets in Paris, it’s always packed with people and can feel quite overwhelming.
To get an idea of what it’s like to visit marché Barbès, check out this video. And for a real-life visit, keep in mind that the market is open only on Wednesdays and Saturdays in the morning and early afternoon.
Marché Dejean is buzzing and full of life. You’ll find fruits, vegetables, fish, spices, and all kinds of African products. The market is open every day except for on Sunday afternoons and Mondays.
A short walk from Goutte d’Or you’ll find the villagelike Montmartre.
Montmartre
The beautiful and idyllic Montmartre attracts many tourists these days. It was an attractive destination already in the beginning of the 20th century, when many writers, poets, and painters moved to the neighborhood to work and live. Artists such as Renoir, van Gogh, Matisse, Monet, and Picasso made Montmartre a true artistic center and meeting point.
You can still feel the artistic history of the area, especially when passing Place du Tertre. Local artists sell their work and offer passers-by to draw their portrait. Touristic, but beautiful!
On the steep hill close to Place du Tertre you’ll find one of the most visited monuments in Paris – the basilica Sacré Coeur. The majestic basilica is a true landmark and definitely worth a visit. On the hilltop outside the basilica you get the most gorgeous view of the whole city.
Walk to the top or, if you’d rather get a ride, take the funicular! And on your way down, why not pick another route. On the north side you’ll pass the oldest, and one of the few, vineyards in Paris, le Clos-Montmartre. On your way down the west side, you can visit the Cemetery of Montmartre. Many famous artists rest in this cemetery and, this too, has become a popular tourist destination.
Montmartre is also wonderful for simply taking a stroll. Leave the crowds behind and enjoy the peaceful surroundings. And when you just want to sit down and soak it all in, a cozy place for a cup of coffee is always nearby.
Pigalle
Located below the hill of Montmartre you have lively Pigalle. The area, which is also partly situated in the 9th arrondissement, is most commonly associated with sex shops, bars, and night clubs. This former red-light district is where tourists go to experience Paris by night, but there is so much more to Pigalle than that.
On Boulevard de Clichy, you’ll find the world famous cabaret Moulin Rouge.
The cabaret is a symbol of the French culture and the bohemian life of the fin de siècle, the end of the 19th century. Courtesans and can-can dancers took the stage in the cabaret’s early days. It was the place to be for artists such as Toulouse-Lautrec, whose paintings and posters made the Moulin Rouge famous internationally.
Today, the Moulin Rouge is hugely popular among tourists, offering entertaining shows with dance and music.
SoPi
Locals enjoy to spend time in Pigalle, too. South Pigalle, also known as SoPi, has become one of the trendiest spots in Paris.
Love shopping? Then you’ll love SoPi! You’ll find everything from cozy boutiques to concept stores, as well as interior design and fashion by Parisian designers – you won’t be disappointed!
SoPi is also amazing when it comes to food. Don’t miss Rue des Martyrs – the street is a heaven for foodies with its cheese shops, bakeries, pâtisseries, and shops selling all kinds of delicacies. And if you’re in the area on a Friday afternoon, make sure to visit the outdoor food market Marché d’Anvers!
In addition to traditional bistros and brasseries, there are many hip places to eat out in SoPi. Why not give Parisian street food a go? And you can end your day here at a cool cocktail bar – they say this is one of the best neighborhoods in Paris for an exquisite cocktail! Feel like staying out longer? Sure! There are many local clubs where you can dance the night away.
On top of all things listed above, southern Pigalle is also a center for music in Paris. There are several musical instrument stores, especially on Rue de Douai. If that’s your jam, be sure to check it out! For musical performances, Élysée Montmartre is one of the popular concert halls in the area.
To sum it up, there is a lot to see and do in Pigalle!
Porte de Clignancourt
Moving on, and up! Porte de Clignancourt is at the very northern part of the 18th arrondissement. Metro line 4 has its terminus here, right inside the city limits of Paris. The metro stop is sometimes subtitled Puces de Saint-Ouen, as it’s right at the the edge of the commune Saint-Ouen, where the world famous flea market Marché aux Puces de Paris Saint-Ouen is situated.
This enormous flea market is the largest of its kind in the world. It’s also one of the most visited attractions in France, which says enough – it’s definitely worth a visit!
There are over 15 separate markets connected to one another here, with more than 1,700 merchants. In order not to get completely lost, you can follow the main street Rue des Rosiers.
Enjoy the unique atmosphere while admiring all the books, records, antiques, and old furniture. It’s a wonderful way to spend a day (or two!). The flea market is open in the weekends.
La Chapelle
Last but not least, Quartier de La Chapelle! This colorful neighborhood is in the eastern part of the 18th arrondissement.
While Goutte d’Or is the “Little Africa” of Paris, La Chapelle is the “Little India” of Paris, or “Little Jaffna”, referring to the capital of Sri Lanka. The Sri Lankan and South Indian culture bring character to the streets of La Chapelle. Walk around and shop for spices, curry pastes, and other delicacies, and when you want a break, sit down for a nice cup of chai tea.
If you happen to be in town at the end of August, don’t miss the Festival of Ganesh Chaturthi, when a joyful parade with dance and music celebrates the Hindu god Ganesh in La Chapelle.
How to get to the 18th?
Metro lines 2, 4, 12, and 13 all pass this arrondissement. If you want to get out in the middle of it all, the metro stop Abbesses (line 12) has a sweet-looking station – you might even recognize it from the movie Amélie.
The 18th arrondissement really has something for everyone. Take your time to see some of it, or to see it all. Enjoy!
